When it comes to performing maintenance on your vehicle, typically you’ll need to jack it up at some point whether it’s to change a tire or your oil. While there are other options available out there such as vehicle ramps or even 2 or 4-post lifts, the most common way to lift part of your car is with a hydraulic jack. Here, we take a brief look at the two most popular types of jacks and which one is best for you and your application.
The two most common types of jacks are floor jacks and bottle jacks. Most people already have their preference on which type is better, and both do have uses around the garage. Which to use depends on what you’re doing and what type of vehicle it is.
Floor jacks are a very popular option and while they may cost a bit more in the beginning, a well cared for and maintained floor jack can last you a lifetime. If you’re going to be using your jack in a garage environment, typically a floor jack is the way to go. Compared to bottle jacks, floor jacks are quicker and easier to use.
Bottle Jack?
If your vehicle doesn’t have very much ground clearance, typically a bottle jack won’t fit under the car and a floor jack is necessary. They are also more stable due to their longer base and ability to distribute the weight of the lifted object across that base.
Floor jacks also have wheels on them allowing the jack to move with the vehicle as it naturally does a bit when it’s lifted where a bottle jack would have to stay stationary and can cause a potential hazard of the vehicle slipping off of the jack. Floor jacks are also able to lift the vehicle much quicker as most of them have a considerably longer handle compared to the average bottle jack or even dual plungers as some racing jacks have.
But bottle jacks also have their place. To start, bottle jacks are generally much cheaper and able to lift a greater load compared to a floor jack. Truck owners may find bottle jacks much more convenient since ground clearance isn’t an issue, and some even choose to replace the jack provided by the vehicle manufacturer with an aftermarket bottle jack. Another benefit to bottle jacks is that overall they’re smaller than most floor jacks, so there are easier to store out of the way when space is a concern.
Since bottle jacks have a smaller lifting pad, they are able to fit in to tight spaces where floor jacks can not. If you have the option to own both types then that is even better as there are some applications where both types of jacks can be handy to use on the same job. Changing suspension components for example, you can jack up the vehicle with the floor jack and then use the bottle jack to compress the suspension on one side of the vehicle.
Hopefully, this gives you a better understanding of the two most common types of hydraulic jacks and what the best choice would be for you and your specific application. Both types are great to have around and each has their specific uses, but for most individuals, a standard floor model will usually be your best bet.
It is my understanding that bottle Jacks are unsafe to use in an industrial shop if the Bottle Jack is not positioned properly, the weight of the Unit will eject the Jack and potentially hurt someone.
Is there any manufacturer safety rule available.
Keep in mind that bottle jacks are made for lifting, not holding (just like floor jacks). Once lifted, use jack stands for support. They’re safe when used correctly. There is less surface area at the top and footprint at the bottom so you do need to be even more careful.
Here’s a good safety primer on bottle jack use: http://www.enerpac.com/en/safety-handbook-for-bottle-jacks
I want to use a bottle jack (or a hydraulic jack) to change wheels (summer/winter) in my garage.
The web-advice pages say i should use a jack stand to support the car (once raised by the jack).
My user manual says I must only use the designated jacking point to raise the car.
Will there be room to have the jack and the stand side-by-side at the appropriate jacking point?
Thanks
Tony
Yes there should be room although it can get tight on some vehicles. If there are front and rear (middle) jack points, you can use those to lift the entire axle at once and place the stands under the jack points by each tire without any interference. If you need to use the corner jack points of each wheel (usually the pinch welds that run along the side), the stand can usually go right next to it or slightly behind.
A jack pad (like this) really helps since you can then position the floor jack under the frame rail slightly away from where the jack stand will ultimately go if room is too tight.
Also, check out this if you haven’t already seen: https://www.floorjackshop.com/how-to-jack-up-a-car-in-8-steps/
I have a Jeep (so, not heavy GVW) which had a bottle jack OE. It is now lifted, and bottle jack doesn’t have range. SPACE LIMITED, so “get bigger bottle jack” isn’t ideal. I’m not lifted enough to justify those (Dangerous) “Farm Jacks” (bumper?).
Anyone know of an OE Scissor jack that gets above 16” (Safely) ?
Thanks
Rico – Check out this page. While it does include the popular Hi-Lift jacks, there are other options for high clearance use. Keep in mind that there are different sizes of Hi-Lifts and almost every Wrangler I see these days with non-stock tires/wheels has one attached to the back.
I’d never recommend a scissor jack since even the standard ones which go up to 14-15″ inches are unstable at max height. I couldn’t imagine going higher.